How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!

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How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!

*Disclaimer*

This is my build and recommendations for other builds. This is for entertainment purposes only. You must be at least 21 years old, legally allowed to purchase a firearm, and follow all federal, state, and local laws if you choose to replicate or follow my recommendations. Never point a firearm towards another living thing, and always treat it as if it were loaded. I am not responsible for any difficulties or damage you receive or cause from this post.

Introduction: Who said guns had to be expensive?

Many good guns, especially rifles, are expensive to buy. Some are well over $1000. However, you don't HAVE to spend that much to own a good gun. There are decent cheap guns out there and building certain parts of the gun on one's own time will save more money. Many manufacturers out there put out great stuff for cheap, but my personal favorite brand is Palmetto State Armory (PSA). The rifle you see above is made by them but cost $770 ready to buy. A similar build with better options can be done for $500-600 if you build it yourself and wait for the right deals

An AR-15 is commonly thought as being a "complex" rifle, but this could not be further from the truth. Sure, there are many tiny parts that go into it, but usually bigger parts with the small stuff already assembled will be on sale, so this makes it much easier. If you have some basic tools like punches, a hammer, and a vice, and can follow a YouTube video, you can do everything I'm about to show you.

AR-15's are highly customizable, with many different options and opinions, so it is easy to get overwhelmed. Luckily, I will make it as easy as possible.

The Stripped Lower Receiver:

How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!

The lower receiver is the "heart" of the AR platform. It connects everything else together and is where most of the action takes place. Therefore, it is the only serialized part of the gun, and thus the one that you must have shipped to an FFL dealer and pass a background check to receive. In English, this means you must be at least 21 with a valid ID, not live in a dumb state like CA, NY, MA, etc. (check your local laws), must not be a felon or any other category that prevents you from purchasing a firearm (federal background check rules), and have it shipped to a place nearby that does FFL transfers, like Walmart, other sporting stores, gun stores, pawn shops, and any other place that is allowed to transfer firearms. Most sites you buy a stripped lower receiver from have a locator for FFL dealers but do your research of these places first because not all FFL fees are the same. The gun store I used did FFL transfers for $15, but a shooting range nearby my house did them for $40.

The receiver above is a "stripped" one, meaning all the internal parts inside of it aren't built in. You can also buy a "complete" receiver, with all parts already installed for you, but for my build, it would have cost $60 more AND still needed an FFL fee instead to buy the lower receiver "complete" instead of building it myself. So, we will only be talking about the stripped lowers here. The stripped lower receiver above is a PSA Blemished Lower and costs $50 + shipping when they are in stock. If they are out of stock, just wait a few weeks and they'll be back in stock with them.

Lower Build Kits & Assembling the Lower:

How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!

To complete your lower receiver, you will need a lower build kit and need to assemble it yourself. Looking at the picture above, this seems like a complicated process, however, I did it in about an hour. There are many options on lower build kits out there (notice I said build and not parts, as parts kits don't include everything you need), however, the one I got from PSA was their STR EPT Lower build kit. This kit includes the Magpul STR stock, which is one of the best stocks on the market and has battery storage tubes in the cheek welds. It also includes their Enhanced Polished Trigger (EPT) group, which is an amazing trigger for the price point. No matter what build kit you select, I would recommend it uses either a Magpul CTR, STR, ACS, or ACS-L stock, which are locking and have great cheek rests and that it has PSA's EPT group. Their normal rifles and Magpul's MOE stocks aren't very great, even if they are a little less expensive. Here are some links to the CTR stock version and the ACS-L version from their site.

To build your stripped lower, follow the video posted below. Note you do not need every tool he uses, most people can get away using a table mounted vice or C-Clamp and Long-nosed pliers with electrical tape on the ends or a set of punches and a hammer. The tools I used were a table mounted vice, punches, a hammer, and a small 1/16" Allen Key for the Magpul trigger guard's set screw. Most of these tools you might already have. If not, the cheapest option is the C-Clamp (probably a 3" or 4" one), and pliers w/ electrical tape on the end to push in the roller pins.

Bolt Carrier Group (BCG) and Charging Handle (CH):

How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!

Now, when you select a Barreled Upper Receiver (next section) you have the option of getting one included with the BCG and CH, I would recommend you not do this. The BCG and CH included with the upper receivers is their cheap, not premium versions that have caused other buyers problems in the past. What you want is a premium full-auto (will say NATO or M16 occasionally) BCG, and PSA sales both one with the engravement like the picture, and one without it that is cheaper. Both have been Magnetic Particle Inspected (MPI) and High Pressure Tested (HPT), meaning they will be reliable and with no defects. There are other BCG's on the site that are cheaper, but again are either semi-auto versions (less strong) and not tested/inspected as well. You can also opt for a Nickel-Boron coated BCG (NiB), but these are more expensive and some of them are also not as well inspected like the cheap BCG's. NiB BCG's do have some natural lubrication and are a bit easier to clean, but overall, it's mostly for looks.

With Charging Handles (CH), you want a forged aluminum one, like this one. These are strong and lightweight, but aren't much, if any more expensive than their other options. Now I happened to get a "kit" deal off PSA that included both the engraved premium BCG and forged CH for only $90, so I saved a bit more money than you might buying them yourself. However, they have reduced their BCG's by $10 for now, so you are still saving a good amount.

How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!

The Barreled Upper Receiver Assembly:

How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!

While you can assemble an upper yourself, it's time-consuming, not cost effective, and needs special tools and a little more skill to do. It is easiest to just buy an assembled one. I will briefly go over the different options for them and explain what I think is best. First, don't buy PTAC uppers, they may be cheapest but are crap. PSA uppers are better.

Barrel Length: To keep this simple, in the USA you may NOT own a rifle with a barrel under 16" in length, otherwise it must be an SBR and requires a $200 tax stamp and a waiting period of about 10 months. So, select at least a 16" barrel. Now if you will use your barrel for long range shooting, an 18" or 20" barrel may be more useful. However, nearly all AR owners get 16" barrels for better compactness. I would recommend a 16" barrel because it is the cheapest, lightest, and most practical.

Barrel Material: There are 4 different barrel material choices you can make: Phosphate (Melonite), Nitride, Stainless, and Cold-Hammer Forged (CHF). CHF is the most expensive, but also the most durable barrels with good accuracy, however, I would not recommend them for your average shooter as they will an extra $150 for durability they will never need. Stainless barrels are the most accurate but wear out the quickest (but will only wear out if you put thousands upon thousands of rounds through them, chances are you will never wear out a barrel), they also weigh a bit more than other options. Nitride barrels have been nitride treated for extra durability, they are slightly less accurate than stainless but weight slightly less and will last longer. Phosphate/Melonite barrels are the same thing and are just a light surface coating, not a treatment. These are the worst barrels you can buy and will corrode over time. I would recommend you either get Stainless Steel or Nitride barrels, both are more than good enough.

Barrel Profile: Generally, most barrels are either A2-style or some derivative, or Pencil. Pencil barrels are a slimmer profile and thus weigh less, but aren't as common or as durable against extreme heat (rapid firing). A2-Style is the most common. Either one is fine, but I'd go Pencil if you can.

Caliber: 5.56x45mm NATO is what you want. All 5.56x45 mm NATO and .223 Remington rounds can be shot by your rifle, and there is a versatile array of ammunition types available. .300 AAC Blackout is a specialty caliber that is expensive and only useful at close ranges and is made for SBR's, so chances are you won't be needing it.

Gas System: Longer gas systems allow lighter recoil and greater durability long term. Rifle length gas systems are only available on 18"-20" barrels, but they are the best if you choose this option. Pistol length is only for pistol AR's which you aren't building most likely. Carbine length is best on SBR's and was made for a 14.5" barrel, but as discussed you can't own below a 16" barrel. On 16"+ barrels, a Carbine length system is not ideal, as it will have higher recoil for no real benefit in compactness. Thus, mid-length gas systems are the best option for 16" barreled guns as they are durable and have reduced recoil.

Handguard Type: There are two types of handguards: Fixed (aka Delta Ring) and Free Float. Free float rails are the most desirable for accuracy (only a slight gain at short ranges, though) and look the best, however, they usually are slightly heavier and slightly more expensive. Delta Ring handguards are more than fine and have been used for decades. Either way, the longer the rail/handguard the better, as you can move your hand up closer to the end of the barrel (greater stability). Thus, stay away from under 10" rails and carbine length handguards. The two most popular rail systems are Keymod and M-LOK. M-LOK is a Magpul design and is the newest on the market, it is the best rail system and is durable, but is slightly more expensive and has less aftermarket support. Keymod is okay, however, and has plenty of accessories. For handguards, the best Handguards are Magpul MOE handguards. They have M-LOK mounting points and are very comfortable, but if you are on a budget, Classic Handguards will do. Some people like the fixed front sight post of handguards, but some people like me hate them and thus have an optic on our rails. Overall, I'd get an M-LOK rail if possible, if not, a MOE handguard is good too.

BCG Included: As discussed earlier, make sure to select "No" for this option, as the BCG & CH included with these kits is of lower quality.

With this all said, here are two uppers I would recommend buying. The one in the top photo of this subsection, and my own personal one down here:

How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!

If PSA is ever out of stock on an upper you want, give them a few weeks and they will be back in stock with it. Sign up for email updates and check every other day to see if it's back in stock yet.

Good Accessories:

Sights and Red Dots: An essential part of your weapon, your sights are not something to cut corners with. A Good Red Dot sight or good iron sights will allow you to be very accurate with your accurate rifle. I personally say just buy a Red Dot Sight and be done with it, but many people like backup flip up sights or permanent iron sights too. If you buy an upper with a fixed front sight post (like the first barreled upper assembly you saw), all you need is a rear sight to get going, but you can still use a red dot sight if you want. A full free float like the second one only needs a red dot, but back up sights aren't a bad idea. For sights, I recommend the Magpul MBUS Gen 2 flip up sights. You can usually buy both for only $80-$100, and if you have a fixed front sight you only need to buy the rear sight for about $50. If you have a red dot you can flip these down to stow them out of your way.

How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!

As for Red Dot's I personally love the Sig Sauer Romeo 5 red dot I have on my rifle. I got it or $160 From Amazon and it is amazing.

How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!

Magazines: While aluminum GI magazines are okay, I like my Magpul PMAG magazines. They are polymer constructed yet cheap (about $12.50 each), can handle being run over by a truck, and have shot over 20,400 rounds without failure. They are the official magazine of the United States Marine Corps. I would recommend getting at least 3 30 round PMAG's, unless you are in a state that requires 10 round magazines (they have those too).

How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!

Misc. Accessories: If you will be using your rifle for home defense, a sling and flashlight are not a bad idea. These allow you to see what (and who) you are pointing your muzzle at, and the sling acts as a third arm for you to open doors with.

With M-LOK or Keymod, you can attach vertical foregrips and other accessories with ease. All you need is to add rail sections respectively.

Ammunition: There are many different types of 5.56 and .223 ammunition. In reality, standard 55 gr FMJ .223 is useable enough 90% of the time. Heavier ammunition is better for penetration and long range shooting, and 5.56x45mm will be the most accurate out of a 5.56 barrel. However, the important thing to keep in mind is to have a good reserve of ammunition (at least 200 rounds) and not to pay more than $0.50/round unless it is very heavy or specialty ammunition (which can go for $1.00 round). Most 55 gr .223 or 55gr 5.56 should be in the range of $0.30-$0.40 a round, any more than that and you are getting ripped off.

My Rifle (still a work in progress):

How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!
How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!
How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!

Anyways, thanks for reading! Be a responsible gun owner and buyer!

How I Built My Own AR-15 for Hundreds Off of the Price!
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