I've done costuming for years.
Here's how bust measurement works. Measure under the bust for the band size and round up for odd numbers. In your case, your band size is a 28.
And then cup size is your bust measurement minus your band measurement. So that is 5 inches. Each inch is a letter. Less than 1" = AA, 1" = A, 2" = B, etc. So that means your cup size is a DD or E.
But finding the right fitting bra isn't a science. Clothing companies manufacture things differently. So the best advice I can give you to finding a good bra is to forget about the measurements and find one that fits well. And then you'll know for that manufacturer, what size you wear. So if you get a bra at Victoria's Secret, you might wear an actual 28DD. But you may go to JC Penney and wear a 30D.
Use your measurements as a rough guide and wear what's comfortable.
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You are not supposed to add inches. Most women are wearing the wrong bra size. If your underbust is 28 then your band is 28. However a 32 will fit you just fine and be a lot cheaper/easier to find
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