Why won’t my 2017 Kia Sorento start even after a new battery?

[Anonymous]

My car is used and has 124,000 miles.
it’s never had issues since I got it until a month ago it began not turnong on one time a week. I would be home and i would enter my car turn it on & head to work. I arrive to work& park & 8-9 hours later when I finish work, my car wouldn’t turn on. I use a jump and the car turns on.

Then after a month I go to auto one and they say battery is fine.
I still get the battery changed as I have warranty.

my parents say they had this same issue happen of their car not turning on & autozone would lie & say the battery was fine and wasn’t & once they got a new battery thier car no longer turned off.

now again my car is doing same thing. I headed out to work, and I stopped the car for 20min to eat something & I tried turn it on & it wouldn’t turn on.

[InknKink]

It's not the alternator or the car would die while running.

It's not a parasitic draw if you stop for 20minutes and it struggles to start. Parasitic draw might occur during your 8hour work shift, but not in 20minutes.

It "could" be the starter but if it was the vehicle wouldn't turn over and rather just 'click' when attempting it turn the key. Coils might have a faulty connection.

If it was the fuel system the car would run/idle rough and turn over only to die afterwards.

"might" be a fault ground.

But honestly... its a kia... electrical nightmares.

Might just as easily be an issue with the security system immobilizing your car (change your key fob battery)

All that being said...

Can you give any further description of what occurs when the vehicle fails to start? What sounds does it make? Does it turn over? Is it sluggish during start-up? Does it "click" and refuse to turn over? Does it start and then quickly die? Does nothing happen? Does the vehicle vibrate/shake on start up? Does it sound smooth while running?

Diagnosing a vehicle over the internet is not easy when the person describing the issue doesn't themselves have some background knowledge in mechanics. Do you not have a man in your life who can look at it? If it's a simple solution an average joe-blow can likely figure it out with a $20 multimeter.

Vehicle failing to start is far too broad of a description.

[Asker]

One time wen I insert the key in the ingnition, the screen would be blank nothing would turn on, another time the screen would say low fuel yet my gas tank was halfway full, another time it would make clicking noises when Inserted the key and tried turn it on.

[InknKink]

I'm betting ether a. bad battery ground. b. loose/corroded wiring harness to a relay box, or c. starter relay/solenoid. You're going to have to take it to a shop to figure out the issue (assuming you don't have a 'me' in your life)... but it shouldn't be that hard of a fix or cost much.

A bit of cleaning/soldering/jiggling is likely the fix.

If you were a friend and local to me I'd fix it for you... honestly, sounds like a terminal grounding issue above all else. Modern cars go all haywire when you fuck with their voltage.

[Asker]

Wen I open the hood I do see 2 thin wires and the wire covering it is peeling off, I don't know if that’s normal

[Asker]

I don't know what those wires r connected to

[InknKink]

And I can't tell you given there is something like 1-2 miles of wires running through a vehicle and without putting my hands on the vehicle, it's pointless speculation.

Everything points towards an electric issue which is generally is a cheap fix (provided it's not a control module) and provided you don't get charged an arm and a leg for hours of diagnostics.

You've reached as far as you're going to get on GAG for this issue. But in my amateur opinion, it's a minor fix. Sounds like a grounding issue. 10minutes of work post diagnostics and no paid for parts.

[OneViewpoint]

Could be...

• The starter motor is worn out
• Ignition coils are worn out
• Spark plugs need changing
• Spark plug wires have cracked and shorted
• Fuel pump is worn out
• Fuel filter clogged
• Fuel line is clogged
• Fuel injectors failed
• Battery cable damaged
• Ignition switch is worn out.
• Some cars have electric solenoids that control the valvetrain (Nissans)

None of that is abnormal wear and tear on a car with 124,000 miles on the odometer.

[andreasderjuengere]

There could be a problem in the electronics. Sometimes ''controllers'' or ''relais'' fail.

[Asker]

Is it expensive?

[andreasderjuengere]

I have no idea. I had both situations withvehicle electronics: 'surprisingly cheap', and 'uncomfortable/inconvenient'. You could just ask a workshop.

[jamesgoldman]

Could be the alternator belt so it's running but not able to charge the battery but would test okay

My father has just had this with his Zafira

[exitseven]

Modern cars have complicated ignition systems. A mechanic needs to put it on the scope

[dudeinohio]

You may have a parasitic draw thats draining your battery. Some accessory or something.

[InknKink]

20 minutes sitting? Na.

[Anonymous]

Test the starter and the alternator

[Opinion Owner]

Did you buy a new battery after you had to jump it?

[Asker]

Autozone tested the alternator and something else and showed it was good too

[Asker]

If u read the whole thing a month ago I got a new battery even tho autozone said my battery was good. I had warranty so I got it replaced. But it’s still having same issue now

[Asker]

I have a portable jump so I use it whenever my car won’t start. That way I’m able drive back home

[Opinion Owner]

I misread changed as charged. The battery is too new to be dead. Sometimes you have to go to a Kia dealer service shop since they know your type of car best. Autozone's stuff is all generic.

[Opinion Owner]

If you have to charge it that frequently then they need to look for something that is draining the battery too fast because they should be good for years

[jahaims]

Alternator or it has a parasitic draw.

[Asker]

Autozone said alternator is good too