In this week's edition of why the UK has the world's best food, we look at a modern classic, the deep-fried mars bar.
WHAT IS IT?
Exactly what the name says, a Mars bar dipped in batter and deep fried in oil or beef fat.
HISTORY
The Haven Chip Bar (now the Carron) in Stonehaven claims to have invented the dish. However several other Scottish chippies have disputed this claiming it's been around much longer than the quoted 1992.
The Evening Express in Aberdeen wrote one of those slow news day stories and it was picked up by the larger Daily Record (a major Scottish newspaper) a few days later. Things snowballed as UK tabloids got hold of the story. The deep-fried Mars bar was now firmly established as an example of Scottish cuisine.
The dish played right into the hands of Scottish stereotypes long perpetuated by the English. While Americans had images of black folk munching watermelon and fried chicken, the UK had drunk Scots clutching battered Mars bars.
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https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0195666316301593
https://www.thelancet.com/journals/lancet/article/PIIS0140673604175892/fulltext
CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE AND POPULARITY
Deep-fried battered food is popular throughout the UK, and the world so it's a little unfair that Scotland gets singled out.
Attempt to secure EU-protected status for the delicacy failed after Mars refused to support it stating,
"Should an application be filed, unfortunately, we wouldn't be able to support it, as deep-frying one of our products would go against our commitment to promoting healthy, active lifestyles."
Not everyone in Scotland supports the dish. In 1995 Aberdeenshire Council ordered a sign should come down “for the good of the wider community” as part of plans to smarten up the town. The council were told to get stuffed.
Critics claim that 80% of deep-fried Mars bars are sold to tourists who just want to take a selfie and most Scottish people only batter normal stuff like pizza
However, the original shop claims it sells 200 a week with other places also claiming large sales.
GOOD V BAD DISHES
Not every Scottish chip shop sells battered Mars bars with many claiming it ruins the oil. However many restaurant chefs throughout the UK have tried to refine the dish as a proper dessert. Like any battered dish you want light bubbly batter.
POPPY'S OPINION
The deep-fried Mars bar is quoted on many websites as a myth with writers quick to point out they've never met anyone who's had one. Even Scotland's main newspaper the daily record claims it's a myth because only 10% of Scottish people regularly eat them
It's easy to dismiss the whole thing as anti-Scottish racism pushed by London-based tabloids who generally like to paint the rest of the UK in a negative light. Similarly, there are many in Scotland that would like to shake off the association.
Poppy believes when it comes to defeating discrimination the best defence is "If you don't want to be treated like a dog, don't bark." Scotland has some great dishes like Haggis and Kedgeree so it's a shame battered mars bars are the first thing outsiders often think of.
But is the concept actually that bad? Perhaps served with chips and a carton of curry, yes, but they have spread worldwide with Australia now claiming them as their own. Had they first appeared in a Paris patisserie we might be viewing them differently
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