Unless you can teach your cat to use the toilet, you are going to need a litter box.
There are lots of cheap ways to do that, but you want to do something that looks good, doesn't waste floor space, and protects the litter from being eaten by any dogs or toddlers.
What we use for a "cat station" is the TRIXIE 2-Story Wooden Cat Litter Box Enclosure
It's furniture, really.
(Since I am limited to 5 pictures per post, I am including 2 pictures from the web in a reply.)
These do need assembly but are easy to assemble.
Here's a schematic showing sizes and the two important holes - the front hole to the 2nd story that the cat jumps through, then the hole between the two stories which the cat goes through to get to the litter box.This is mine sitting adjacent to a freezer chest. Take a good look at it though...
I put on top:
1. A small carpet to stray catch water or cat food or litter that still clung to the cat's paws.
2. Cat bowls (food and water) so dogs won't get to them.
3. Yellow container of cat litter.
4. White container of prescription cat food.
5. 2 boxes of Cat litter deodorizer.
6. Small container of cat meds.
7. Small dark trash bucket with shovel and scoop for emptying cat poop from kitty litter. as well as a box of litter
Inside, I have a 5-gallon bucket that you can get anywhere for under $5 (mine is from Lowe's). I fill the bucket with litter and some litter deodorizer and the cat just does her thing. Less mess with kitty litter on the floor. No worry about dogs or kids eating cat poop or litter. Notice that inside picture... Without this cat station, the cat would be carrying that litter on her paws all over the house. But, because she hops up through the hole before getting out, lots of litter falls off her paws right there and is contained inside the station, so much less litter is elsewhere in the house.
Best of all: Because this cast station is basically furniture, people may not even need know that you own a cat if you clear the litter in this cat station often enough. Certainly, the smell and mess are better contained and there's no obviously in-sight litter box.
Here it is listed at Chewy:
It costs about $120 + possible tax + S&H, but it is sooooooooooooo worth it.
I know this cat station may seem expensive, but it is so worth it.
I've thought about getting another one for a friend's cat.
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Consider also getting scratching posts. You at least want "sisal" which is a kind of cheap twine rope you probably played with as a kid. Those with carpet are good too but I find cats prefer sisal. I have a stand of 3 scratching post pillars right next to that freezer. It looks a lot like this:
and I got mine at Petco or PetSmart.
Just before she hops on top of the freezer to walk to the top of the cat station to eat, she will scratch on the scratching posts. These usually need to be changed about once a year. Not expensive. Anyway, that's what I have, but you can get cat towers and all sorts of cat condos and/or scratching posts. The point is that cats need to scratch - that his, have something they can have tug at their claws. Unfortunately, that is often furniture, so be aware of that which is why scratching posts are so important - cats usually prefer them over furniture.
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Other advice:
If you can, get a female cat that is spayed of course. Males will piss more to mark territory especially if there's another cat in the house. Males are still fun too though if there are no other cats so the pissing thing is less likely a problem.
Save wonton soup or 1-qt yogurt (or other dairy product containers). You will be using them as ersatz scoops like scooping liter from the litter container to the litter box.
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Scratching posts or boxes in every room. The boxes are great because you can load them with catnip. To encourage them to scratch them.
You should have a couple cat trees. Placed in the rooms you spend a lot of time. Because the cat will likely spend a lot of time there.
Get a brush or two. They are normally called slicker brushes. They use metal wires with a slight crook in them and protective balls of plastic on the tips. These do the best at grabbing loose fur.
Don't clip their nails. Unless you hear them clacking on the floor or they are curving it. Try to get them to take care of them naturally with the scratching posts/pads. Basically, clipping should be a last resort if they aren't taking care of it themselves.
Get flea medicine from your vet. This stuff is pricey. But the vet stuff prevents a range of parasites.
Get all shots and checkups done. Get it spayed/neutered.
You should have one more litterbox than number of cats.
Keep food and water away from the litterbox
Get a mat for the litterbox to catch litter. Don't use clumping litter. That stuff can cause digestion issues if they lick a lot off their paws. I like old fashioned clay litter best. Otherwise try one of those natural plant based litters (but check for allergic reaction).
Consider a litterbox with a top exit rather than front. To reduce mess. Your cat may or may not like those robot boxes.
Change water daily. They like fresh water. Consider a fountain. But be prepared for a lot of thorough cleaning. As those can build up slime and other dangerous microbes. So, they have to be completely broken down and disinfected. To keep your cat healthy.
Keep food and water at least a few feet apart. They don't really like them next to each other. That's what humans like for neatness, not cats.
Change and wash wet food bowls with every meal. Dry food bowls can be used a few days before washing.
Get a heated cat bed. They'll prefer that to your other furniture. So, it's a great way to keep them from shedding on all your furniture. Give it a vacuum every month. Make sure it is one thoroughly safety tested, UL listed and such. As there's a lot of untested crap from China I'd be worried would cause a fire or burn the cat. Best to add a towel to spread the heat and prevent hot spots.
If you want to be the ultimate cat owner. Build a cat highway along your walls. With wall tunnels into each room. So, the cats can go in and out of every room of the house. Up high, along the ceiling.
Don't feed the cat treats from what you are eating. Chocolate, garlic, onion, chives or any other Allium are toxic to cats. So, anything made with those is bad for them. Some cats are lactose tolerant and some aren't (heavy cream is probably better for them than regular milk as they have no use for sugars). Don't give anything with sugar. That's just horrible for their teeth and cats can't taste sweet. So, it is lost on them. Remember, they are obligate carnivores we are omnivores.
Do give them dental treats. Also give them cat food where the first ingredient is meat.
Cats like to sleep above ground level. Our Charley Farley has an old blanket with the edges built up to form a "nest", which is on an old dining table in the spare bedroom. He has an old chair to give him something to climb on first.
A scratching post and a cat tunnel is fun for them too. A toy mouse with catnip keeps them occupied for hours!
The rest you have pretty well covered.
well all that you mentioned and probably thing she can claw so she doesn't do it to couch, carpet and similar (she might still do it but you can teach her not to but she has to have the thing she can claw)
they also like high spaces, so anywhere she can be on top she will like
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I've had cats forever, so I suggest:
* Obviously, the proper shots and vaccinations. Distemper and rabies are now 3 year shots. They're not cheap. You'll also want to give them monthly flea, tick and heartworm protection. There are several all in one treatments (I use Revolution Plus, your vet will have it)
* A solid kitty carrier for trips to the vet
* A kitty condo. Cats like to sit up high
* Scratching posts or pads. The condo will have them too, but cats will scratch anything they can
* Cat toys - but easy on the catnip. Don't leave catnip toys out all the time. Get different kinds of toys, and know they will tire of them eventually.
* A water fountain. Most cats don't get enough water unless you add some to their food or give them something interesting to drink from besides a bowl.
* A soft throw blanket they can call their own.
Ok, here's my mini rant on the most important things - play and food choices.
** PLAY with your cat, and socialize it to being around humans, and being held. Don't just throw toys at it. This is especially true of kittens. Cat dancers are cheap (get them on line) and so are toys you can dangle and have them chase. They sleep a LOT, so they need exercise whenever they can get it, especially indoor cats.
** Food choices -- the worst thing you can do is give your cat bad or cheap food. Things like "Little Friskies" are the cat equivalent to Twinkies, and will cause many very expensive to fix illnesses in your cat. Every vet has a few favorite lines of food they sell, so get recommendations. There are many decent products out there that are non-prescription foods. My cats need special food, but if your cat doesn't, ask your vet and do your own research.
Ideally, you want a food that is higher in protein than fat, and lowest in carbohydrates. The breakdown should be no worse than about 45, 35, 30, protein/fat/carbs. It would be better if it was 50/30/20, but that will cost more. Here's a link to the most comprehensive info out there: Cat Food Analysis
This is all "wet food", not dry. Dry food is good as a supplement, but it is very fattening for cats and has to be managed carefully. A fat cat is a health issue waiting to happen, and if it does, 99% of the time it's the owner's fault.
One more thing - NEVER buy your meds, like the monthly treatments for fleas, ticks, and heartworm, from a big box store on line, like Chewy or even PetMeds. Chewy is fine for food, toys, litter, etc, but get your meds from a vet or a vet's online store. It's the only way to guarantee purity because vets buy DIRECTLY from the manufacturer only. Some manufactures will sell ONLY to vets. Counterfeit meds are produced all over the world and some websites don't ask where they came from. These will be cheaper and you'll be tempted to get them, but DON'T !!
If you have questions, message me. :)A cat tree. They like to be able to perch up off the ground and survey their domain. Watch a few episodes of "My cat from hell" and you'll catch on pretty quickly to the easy stuff people often overlook (usually it's not a cat problem on that show, it's a people not understanding cats problem)
Cats need cat toys, and a nice pad to lie on (check out Cat Cave online), and needs to stay IN the house where it is safe, and if you get a kitten, the kitten needs shots unless it already had them, and also needs kitten foo for the first year, and an initial vet visit.
The worst things you can do are not take it to a vet right away, not vaccinate it, and let it outside.Scent eliminating, clumping cat litter, litter box, scooper, wet or dry cat food, scratching post or a tower, dangle toys or something small and crinkly or able to be rolled around.
You pretty much have it covered. Maybe get a little bed for it. We had a little mat we got from LL Bean and set it up at the foot of our bed and the cat used to sleep there.
Thank you for adopting a cat, I hope it works out for you.
Give your kitty lots of affection.Litter box, collar and tags in case he gets loose, water & food bowl and a good Vet because they are going to need annual/bi-annual shots.
just be prepared for lots of cuddles and cuteness overload!
That pretty much covers it. Maybe a crate to transport the kitty to the vet and back.
something to scratch or it will go after your furniture
An egg roll, dipping sauce, a bed of rice, side of steamed broccoli, and chopsticks
Cat proof blinds or something to deter them from climbing in the blinds
A cat scratching post a litter tray cat food
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