This was my New Orleans experience on a weekend birthday trip a few years ago.
HOTEL
We sort of decided to go on our trip last minute, so hotels were really expensive in the Quarter, so we decided to stay in Gretna which is only one toll bridge ride away from the Quarter at a cylindrical looking Holiday Inn. There weren't a lot of bells and whistles there, but the beds were super comfortable and the room had a fridge. We had an issue with the room, but they sent someone so fast that we barely hung up the phone before maintenance appeared. Also a bonus, if you know anything about staying in the Quarter, is parking is extremely limited and there isn't really street parking, so all the hotels charge you like $30 A DAY just to park in their garages, but in Gretna, no such worries, free parking, and we could see our car and a view of the bridges which were so lovely at night from our hotel room.
EAT
Being in Gretna, and neither of us ever having heard of it, we groupon'ed the place and found a coupon for this tiny little place called Cafe Etienne which is now permanently closed. The place was a tiny renovated house with standard square tables and lit almost entirely by candle. The food wasn't amazing, but hearing that it was my birthday, the owner brought out a little slice of cake for each of us. What was amazing was the owner. The guy was in the business with his family. That same night, his mother happened to drop in. He had some great stories, as we weren't in any hurry, and were only one of three other groups in for dinner that night. Looking around the walls he showed us his family photos including one really 80's prom photo of him with Flock of Seagulls hair and a white tux with tails.
On our second night, we went to some restaurant in the middle of the quarter nearing it's final hour, so I can't really say that it was their fault the food sucked. I ordered a seafood gumbo, but what I got was a roux with a ton of sausage, and nothing else, and it was cold. I had it sent back, and what I got back was the same bowl with like 2 shrimp thrown in. Was not good, but what attracted us to the place was that there was a live band playing while we ate, which put us in good vibe mode even as our food sucked.
The next day for my birthday dinner, we went to Acme Oyster House which promised online a wait, but most of the reviews were good. We were not disappointed and the reviews were accurate, we did have to wait about 30 minutes to be seated. We both ordered fried soft shell crab po-boys which were amazing. So amazing, neither of us spoke for the first 15 minutes we ate them and to this day, I'm still claiming it as one of THE best things I ever ate. Later on that night, we went to Cafe Du Monde for some beignets which we clinked together spreading the powdered sugar everywhere in celebration because I hate cake, so this was perfect.
ENTERTAINMENT
Other than just have some fun, I did come there specifically for a birthday photo shoot, so it was a lot of walking around the city just taking shots and seeing the touristy sites. On Saturday, the Quarter became everything I'd ever seen on tv or in a movie. The cops shut down some of the streets and they became open to street traffic alone. Street performers set up everywhere with dazzling shows. There was everything from clowns, to kids step dancing, to all types of music, to people doing flips. Everything was live and amazing. As you would walk by the bars, the music from each would be it's own party, and all the little shops along the route had so much cool stuff...BUT total tourist trap stuff too often extremely overpriced. I wanted to get an "authentic" New Orleans masquerade mask, but what I found was largely stuff I'd seen in my local Halloween shop but here for 5x the price.
CITY VIBES
Driving into New Orleans is a bit strange. I can't really explain this well, but it's almost like you enter onto the freeway backwards and make a round about to get on, and intersections are sometimes like 6-way. The Quarter is a lot smaller than I pictured it. The streets are very very tight, so if you don't know how to parallel park, and park well, forget about it. Also CHECK where you park, because there are dozens of signs, and you will get a ticket if you ignore or towed, especially on trash day.
There were a few drunk idiots doing stupid drunk things and harassing people at night, but nothing to where we went where we personally felt the need to leave for our safety (of course everyone's experience is different, and this was December, so not exactly prime time). The city was a mix of really beautiful homes and architecture, but also a lot of poverty. Same could be said of most cities, so the trend continues, but you get the definite sense that there is a line in the sand where there is the Quarter and then there is the other side of the tracks.
I loved the street vibes, just walking around the Quarter. Everyone, and I do mean everyone, wants to or is having a pretty friggin' good time. Huge crowds, music, fun, drinking, dancing, even having sex...yup, saw a couple. I never felt afraid for my safety anywhere we went, even when we accidentally went down a wrong turn on foot at 2am in the morning (which I'm definitely not recommending you do) and got lost for 15 minutes on the side streets; some nice guy kindly pointed us in the right direction and then gave us a good tip for breakfast.
CONCLUSION
We had a great time. I've never been anywhere in my life where everyone was putting out the good vibes with such energy and fun. Kind of hard to have a bad time because there is something to do around every turn even if you aren't into the bar/party scene.
What Girls & Guys Said
Opinion
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I have a good friend who lives out in the swamp west of New Orleans, and I've been in a few times with him, and once just me and a girlfriend.
As with most places, you need to know where to go. He knew some great places, we didn't, and the difference it made was huge.
Definitely agree with that sentiment. Just had a friend hire a guide for her trip to Mexico and she said, he refused to take her to certain parts of the city for safety reasons, and warned her of the dangers in the city and how her group should handle themselves in certain situations. He also showed them some of the most amazing off the beaten path places. She said, she had no regrets for the same reason... it made a world of difference to know what was cool and what wasn't.
We went also to see Bourbon Street but we avoided consuming there. We ate near the river, in open air and the food wasn't bad. Sheer luck? I don't know.
Our hotel was on the other side of the French quarter. Not really cheap but still affordable. Something __Court__.
I live about an hour from the Big Easy. I've been there many times. There is always something to do. A couple of years ago me and a friend went on a vampire tour... lot of money. Glad you had a good time.